A Proper Bed at Last

7:28 AM

Mmm, it’s a bit chilly this morning. Could it finally be normal hiking weather again?

The next water source is 16 km away, and I’ve read that you might have to try to catch water with a leaf there. So to be safe, I fill all my bottles. A bit annoying, because I still have to climb higher, and carrying all that water doesn’t make the hike any lighter.

8:51 AM

I’m back up high again and finally have phone reception. That makes it possible to video-call everyone back home at once.

Unfortunately, there are less pleasant things happening at home that worry me. So many worries, in fact, that I consider ending this trip.

9:24 AM

The first pass is almost behind me, but I’m so tired that I have to lie down right on the trail to really recharge.

The views are beautiful, but it’s hot again, and without a cool breeze you have to hop from patch of shade to patch of shade.

11:02 AM

In the PCT app there’s a phone number you can text if you want to get picked up at the pass. That way you can get off the mountain and take a short time-out. It’s still about 20 km to walk, so I ask if it’s possible to be picked up at 5:00 PM.

To my surprise I immediately get a reply: no problem, just let me know when you’re there.

Pff, what a relief—now I just need to find the energy to get over all those passes.

11:39 AM

The view back toward the first pass I crossed today—it’s the saddle on the left. It’s such a shame that you have to descend again just to mentally prepare yourself for the next pass. I have many passes on the schedule today, otherwise I won’t make my ride to town in time.

11:57 AM

Shally Fire: This area was reopened two weeks ago, and PCT hikers are allowed to pass through again. Everything is burned, and it feels like walking through an oven. It smells like a wood stove and it’s just as hot as standing next to one.

12:28 PM

12:55 PM

At the next pass the climbs are getting tougher and tougher. I see a new plume of smoke in the direction I came from, and two helicopters fly overhead with water buckets. Has the Shally Fire flared up again?

1:42 PM

It’s hard to see, but the smoke is getting worse. I’ve already passed through the area, so I won’t be affected by the smoke anymore.

3:36 PM

Third pass.

4:18 PM

Fourth pass, fifth pass—I text that 5:00 PM isn’t going to be doable.

I immediately get a message back saying it’s no problem. “Take your time and go easy.” Thank you 😊

5:12 PM

Finally all the elevation is behind me and I can start the descent.

Five kilometers downhill might not sound like much, but with all those loose stones you really have to pay attention. Two kilometers before the pickup point I text again that I’ll arrive at 5:30 PM.

Alright, I’m heading your way!!

5:34 PM

And the moment I touch the asphalt, a big pickup truck pulls up. Her name is Dusty, and she’s a true trail angel who organizes rides to get people off the mountains and into town to recharge. It’s so great that people like this exist; she takes me 16 km further to a motel.

6:09 PM

So good to be lying in a proper bed again 🙏

First I go out for dinner: a huge salad followed by a generously loaded pizza. Despite constantly refilling my soda water, I just couldn’t quench my thirst.

I put on my rain gear and handed a bag of clothes to the motel owner. For $5 he’ll wash and dry my clothes and leave them outside my door tomorrow morning.

Total: 34 km in 10:36 hours
1,823 m up · 31 m down