Shade First, Kilometres Later

7:20 AM

That was a cold night. Not so bad when you can snuggle into a warm quilt, except then you sweat like crazy. So it's a night of turning: quilt open, quilt closed, turn, turn, turn… and f… it's half past six already.

Another hot day with a big climb. This is the moment to gain some altitude. Luckily, the first few kilometres are in the mountain's shade, so at least you don't overheat straight away. Still, the trail climbs quickly. One little step at a time, don't think too much.

8:08 AM

9:44 AM

Then you reach the first plateau and have to walk along the sunny side of the mountain. Not much fun. Drink, drink and drink some more, until you feel sick — and by then you've already pushed too far.

But you have to keep going. Stopping here isn't an option anymore.

I decide to leave the trail and double back a little. There are taps over there, and the rivers here are bone dry.

1:46 PM

Might as well have a hot meal already. And don't forget 🤪 to brush my teeth. Now there's water, I can freshen up and sit out the next five hours.

Suddenly a local Dutch woman comes and sits with me. She's happy to have a chance to speak Dutch again. She's going to Amersfoort next week, and for a moment I imagine sending loads of my stuff back to the Netherlands with her. Nah, that's a bit much.

Her friend Antoinette comes over for a chat too. Am I staying here? This is her spot. No, just waiting for it to cool down, then I'll be off. Oh no, no need to leave — take all the time you want.

5:03 PM

Nearly stepped on another rattlesnake.

5:08 PM

Started walking again at 4:30 pm, but it's still really hard going. I need to wait a bit longer for the sun to disappear behind the mountains. That sun really doesn't agree with me.

6:27 PM

Finally I can pick up a bit of speed, but the trail is still climbing.

6:58 PM

Pretty tired now. That'll do. I'll pitch the tent at the next spot.

8:25 PM

Found a spot. A woman from London is on the terrace above me, and later, in the dark, a whole bunch of Americans arrive. The sort who talk nice and loudly and inflate their mattresses with big pumps. One has a puncture, so out comes the duct tape.

Earplugs in. I want to sleep.

Total: 15.3 km in 14 hours 16 minutes. Ascent: 576 m. Haha, average speed 0.8 km/h. Heart rate 75.